Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Making jeans from scratch...

So, today I decided to try my hand at making a pair of maternity jean capris from scratch ...(scary, right?)...
I used a simple method for making Merry two pairs of really cute shorts, but could I really make something bigger?  I was determined to find out!
The simple method I used is as follows...
Make sure you have an iron for appropriate pressing!  All fabric should be pre-washed, pressed and ready to go!  Also, be sure you have enough thread and notions for the look you are going for.
Get out a pair of jeans that you like the fit of.  Fold this in half, as if to fold and put away.  Trace around this, adding extra for seam allowances and any needed for darts, etc.  I've found that most jeans are higher in the back and lower in the front... be sure to allow for this as well (I didn't and had to add on extra in the back).
For my project today, I simply cut my fabric on the fold line, which gives me an inside seam, but no seam on the outside of the legs.  In the future, I will cut just shy of this (making sure to add enough for seam allowances) to make seams on the outside as well (I just like the look of it).  I left a 1" seam allowance for this project.
After all the cutting, sew a basting stitch line along all the seams, so you can try it on.  To do my basting seam, I simple set my sewing machine to the longest stitch length.  Note:  do NOT back stitch!  You have to take out this basting line, and back stitching makes it harder.  Back stitch your final sewing line, not here! :-)
Next, I tried on my capris.  I found that even though I'd left a 1" seam allowance and sewed 1" in, this wasn't enough (I think my ready to wear pair might have been a bit stretchier).  I then sewed another basting line at the 1/2" mark and this was pretty perfect!  (I tried my capris on again after ripping out the 1" basting line... and found that I had back stitched at both ends... bad idea...)
If you have made your pattern and cut your fabric correctly, you won't need to do the following...(I did neither of those.... )
After trying on my capris, I found that the front was too high (my belly is getting quite large and needed a bit more room), and the back was too low.  I found that the amount needed on the back was approximately the same as what I needed to cut from the front, so I sewed that piece to the back.  I also needed to include darts to the back.
After each sewing step, it is really helpful to press open your seams!  This gives you a better look at what you are doing, as well as making any cross seams easier to sew.  You can press the seams open, or press them to one side, depending on your preference.
For this project, I sewed the middle section, which includes the crotch section, first.  I then sewed the legs, which meant that instead of "right sides together," I had to do one leg "right sides together," then the other leg "right sides together."  I hope that made sense... I'll do pictures next time!
I've got the major seams together now.  I need to do the rest of the top stitching, hemming, and adding of some elastic to make a nice and comfy maternity band.... oh, and the pockets... and any other pretty details.  I will take pictures of the finished project, as well as pictures along the way next time!

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